Schweizer Armee Haflinger stromlos

It sounds like the Dynastart needs new brushes (Coals). Do you have the starting handle? If so you could get the engine running that, but I would guess the red ignition light would stay on even when the engine is running.

Is the battery fully charged? Put it on charge over night and try again in the morning.

Another issue could be the Starting relay - if you are hearing a "Clack" sound then the starting relay is operating, but might not be making an electrical connection from the battery to the Dynastart. If there is any current flowing from the starter relay, you will need an electronic meter or at least a test bulb.

John

Hi John,

danke für die Antwort. Die Batterie hatte ich vorher komplett geladen, und er zündete ja auch erstmal. Dann kam das „Klack“ und es ging nichts mehr. Als ob keine Batterie mehr angeschlossen ist. Wenn die Kohlen des Dynastart runter wären, würde doch aber zumindest die Öldruck und Zündungsleuchte leuchten... oder sehe ich das falsch?

Gruss Martin

Hi Martin,

Yes, if the only issue is the power to the Dynastart is not there, then both the oil light and the charge light on the dashboard will light up. When the engine is running then the charge light will remain turned on.

You need to check if there is electricity getting to the Dynastart when you hear the "clack" sound. It is not common for the connections in the relay to become so worn that they do not pass electricity to the Dyanstart.

John

Good morning John,

sorry for my late response. There was only once this „clack“ noise during my last try to start the engine. Now there is only silence and no lights etc.. The Haflinger Acts as there would be no Batterie connected at all. But the batterie is fully charged and running with other cars. I was TDY and on vacation right now, so I can’t check the system in the moment. Is there something like a main fuse that is responsible or what could be the reason for the Haflinger to act like this?

thanks again, Martin

If you now have NO electrical power at all, you will still need a multimeter to find the point at which the electricity stops.

Start at the battery, one wire from the multimeter should be connected to the bodywork of the Haflinger. the other you can now use to see where the break in the power is happening.

Start with touching the other terminal of the battery to prove that you are getting 12 volts from the battery.

Then in the engine bay, find the Relay (top right hand side) and touch the wire to both terminals one after the other. One of them should show 12 volts. If you get nothing, then the wire from the battery to the relay is faulty. you will need to check the joints first as these are the most likely things to be wrong.

There should be a smaller wire going from one of the terminals of the relay to the fuse box in the front. This is where a wiring diagram would be useful, it will show you which wire and colour you need to be following. It is possible that a fuse has blown in the fuse box which is why you have no lights on the dash, but it should not stop the relay from supplying power to the Dynastart. This should still turn over if the relay is allowing power to the Dynastart.

You can check if the relay is faulty or not by using a length of THICK wire and bridging the two terminals of the relay - there will be big sparks!!!! but make the connection in one smooth go and there will only be 1 spark and the dynastart will try to turn.

There are a lot more testing things you will need to do if things still do not work. I would suggest you find a "local" friend who knows something of car electrics to help you. Unless you want to learn all about car electrics yourself.

John

Hi John,

thank you for the informativ answer. As soon as I‘m back, I will start testing the stuff you suggested.

more to follow.

Hi John,

I just had the time for some measurements. I have the 12V coming from the Batterie to the Anlassschütz, ignition lock, etc. (red circled) But as soon as I put the key into the ignition lock, the voltage is not there anymore.

Looks like the lock is the problem of that all. Would you agree? Could that explain that I have no electrical power at all?

Hi, 

yes, if the ignition switch is faulty then it could mean that there will be no electrical current getting from the battery to with the ignition circuit or to the relay contacts. You could try to by pass the ignition switch, at least for the starter relay. Take a wire from the positive side of the battery and touch the other end to the  terminal on the starter relay that comes from the ignition switch. The relay should go “clack” and the Dynastart should turn. There are likely to be sparks so be ready for them!

Do you have the workshop manual for a Haflinger? In it is a wiring diagram which should help in determining which wire is which. You could also by pass the ignition switch and make the ignition coil live, then when the Dynastart turns over, you can get the engine to run.

it does sound like the ignition switch is your culprit - replacing it is probably a good idea.

John

Hi John,

i will by pass the switch but I’m almost sure that the ignition switch is the reason. I already ordered one. Thanks for all your help. Good to have such a great community.

i will let you know the result :-)

Martin

Hi John,

ich habe mittlerweile den Zündschalter gewechselt und der Haflinger springt wieder an. Soweit so gut. Nun habe ich aber eine weiteres Problem. Nach dem Start läuft er kurz und geht dann wieder aus...Die Benzinpumpe ist neu und er sollte genug Benzin bekommen. Was könnte sonst der Grund sein? Hast Du eine Idee?

gruß Martin

The most likely reason is that the jets in the carburetor are partially blocked.

Clean the fuel filter.

Take the top off the Carburetor and clean out the float bowl chamber. Shake the float to see it it has a hole and fuel inside - it should NOT have any fuel inside the float.

Take the JETs out and use a can of compressed air, or an air pump line to blow them clean. Although people do it, it is not a good idea to push a piece of wire down the holes in the jets as you can scratch them and that can make for bad running afterwards.

When every thing is clean, take the fuel pipe from where it joins to the carburetor and put it in a GLASS jar. Then turn the engine over (without starting) to see how much / what the fuel looks like. If it is full of bits, you will have to clean the petrol tank and fuel pipes.

You should get an amount of fuel pumped in to the jar, if you only get a little, then clean pipes from the filter to the fuel pump and from fuel pump to carburetor. It is possible the pump is not working correctly if everything else has been cleaned but you still do not get a good flow of petrol from the pump when you turn the engine over.

John

Same or similar problems may be caused by a cracked or corroded / pitted intake manifold. As the mixture of gasoline / air does not correspond to the ideal proportions any more, stalling and malfunction of the motor will be the consequence.Very often the reason for the problems will then be sought elsewhere, at the carburettor or the ignition system rather than at that source...   Michael J.

Danke für eure schnelle Hilfe. Ich habe die Benzinleitung vom Vergaser gezogen und es kam genug Benzin an. Düsen und Filter alle frei... dann dachte ich das Benzin an sich könnte es auch sein. Das habe ich schon drei Jahre drin. Kam einfach nicht zum fahren. Altes Benzin raus, neues rein.... na endlosen Anlassversuchen startete der Haflinger letztendlich und läuft nun wieder schön rund. Immer gut wenn es nicht ein größeres Problem ist :-)

Danke nochmal John und Michael für eure hilfreichen Tipps.

Gruß Martin